Dordrecht is my hometown and
it is the oldest city of Holland
They say that for a good marriage, the woman must have a past and the man must have a future.
Well the ‘marriage’ between the people of Dordrecht and their town is a shining example of this.
Just as Marianne is the symbol of France, the patron saint who symbolizes Dordrecht, has a wonderful past.
The monuments determine the face of a city which originated almost a thousand years ago.
On the right: Oil painting on canvas, View of Dordrecht (from the Maas) by Aelbert Cuyp (Dordrecht 1620 –Dordrecht 1691), signed bottom left: A Cuyp, 1650. Dordrecht is seen from the north-east on the conjunction of two rivers, the Oude Maas and Dordtse Kil, marked by the ‘Standard-Mole’ windmill.
The massive square tower is the Grote Kerk (The Big Church). The quai side is shown as it was rebuilt in 1647 and the scene dates from a bit later after the end of the Thirty Years War in 1648 with an absence of warships, and possibly painted for the artist himself at the time of his marriage to the wealthy Cornelia Bosman, in 1658.
The sun is striking the south-west face of the church tower and both clocks read 5 minutes past seven.
A copy of the left half with the view of Dordrecht is in the Rijksmuseum, Amsterdam and the View of SDordrect in the Iveagh Bequest, Kenwood show appoximately the same view and a painting by Calraet in the National Gallery, London is derived from this.
Aelbert Cuyp View of Dordrecht
History of Dordrecht
The earliest known written reference to Dordrecht dates from around 980 AD, when the settlement appears under the name Thuredriht. The precise origin of the name remains uncertain and has been the subject of considerable discussion. The second part of the name, driht or drecht, is generally associated with a waterway, passage or crossing. The first element, Thure, is less easily explained. It may have referred to the name of a local watercourse that later disappeared or changed beyond recognition. Over the centuries, Thuredriht gradually evolved through different spellings and pronunciations into the name we know today: Dordrecht.
Whatever the exact origin of its name, water would determine the history and prosperity of Dordrecht for centuries. From the tenth century onwards, the Counts of Holland and members of their court regularly stayed in the settlement. Dordrecht occupied an exceptionally favourable position at the meeting point of important waterways. At a time when rivers were the principal highways for trade and transport, this strategic location offered enormous advantages.Trade flourished, the population increased and the settlement gradually developed into an important urban centre.
The Oldest City of Holland
Dordrecht traditionally dates its city rights to 1220, when Count William I of Holland confirmed or extended important privileges of the town. There is evidence, however, that Dordrecht already possessed significant trading privileges before that date. Around 1200, during the reign of Count Dirk VII of Holland, Dordrecht was already developing as a privileged trading settlement. Dirk VII, who was married to the influential Adelaide of Cleves, ruled Holland from 1190 until his death in 1203.
The charter of 1220 nevertheless became a defining moment in the city’s history. It strengthened Dordrecht’s legal and economic position and contributed to its rapid development as one of the most important commercial centres of medieval Holland. For that reason, Dordrecht proudly presents itself as: the oldest city of Holland.
Dordrecht, 3D drawing (Zock Design, Dordrecht) of city wall, gates and towers around 1425.
Grotekerksbuurt and City Hall, 2019
A View of the Wijnstraat, Dordrecht 1745 by Aert Schouman, born 4 March 1710.
Dordt and its People
Locally, Dordrecht is affectionately known simply as “Dordt.” And so began, one might say, the long marriage between Dordt and its people — a relationship that has endured for more than a thousand years. To walk through the historic centre today is to walk through centuries of Dutch history. Behind the façades, harbours, narrow streets and monumental buildings lies the story of a city that was once among the wealthiest and most powerful in Holland. During the Middle Ages and well into the sixteenth century, Dordrecht occupied a position of exceptional economic and political importance. Eventually, the centre of economic power shifted northwards and Amsterdam rose to become the dominant city of Holland. Dordrecht never regained its former position, but the traces of its remarkable past are still visible everywhere.
The St Elizabeth’s Flood
One of the most dramatic events in the history of the region occurred in 1421, when the St Elizabeth’s Flood (Sint-Elisabethsvloed) devastated large parts of the surrounding countryside. Dikes failed, villages disappeared and enormous areas of cultivated land were inundated. Dordrecht itself survived, but the disaster profoundly changed the landscape around the city. Out of that transformation eventually emerged the extraordinary network of rivers, creeks, wetlands and islands that we now know as the Biesbosch. Today it is one of the Netherlands’ great national parks, but its landscape still bears the imprint of the medieval struggle between land and water. For Dordrecht, water has always been both friend and enemy: the source of its prosperity and, at the same time, a constant threat.
Footsteps Through History
Although Dordrecht surrendered its leading economic position centuries ago, the footsteps of Dutch history still echo through its streets. Among its most famous citizens were the brothers Johan and Cornelis de Witt. Johan de Witt became Grand Pensionary of Holland and was one of the dominant political figures of the Dutch Republic during the seventeenth-century Golden Age. Dordrecht also produced some of the great painters of Dutch art, including Aelbert Cuyp, Nicolaes Maes and Ary Scheffer. Vincent van Gogh, although not a native of the city, also spent several months in Dordrecht as a young man. Art, politics, religion and commerce all left their marks on the city.
The Birth of an Independent Netherlands
One of the most important places in Dordrecht is Het Hof, a former Augustinian monastery whose buildings still survive in the historic centre. Here, in July 1572, representatives of the cities of Holland gathered for what became known as the First Assembly of the Free States (Eerste Vrije Statenvergadering). The Netherlands was in the midst of its revolt against Spanish rule. Representatives of most of the cities of Holland met in Dordrecht and recognised William of Orange as stadholder, while pledging political and financial support to the revolt.
The meeting is regarded as an important milestone in the struggle that would eventually lead to an independent Dutch Republic. It was not yet the formal founding of the Netherlands as a state, but it represented a decisive moment: the rebellious cities of Holland were beginning to organise themselves politically in opposition to Spanish authority. Dordrecht had become one of the places where the foundations of the future Netherlands were laid.
The Synod of Dordrecht
The city would again take centre stage in European history in 1618 and 1619, when Protestant theologians and representatives from several countries gathered here for the famous Synod of Dordrecht — the Synod of Dort. What began as a theological dispute within the Dutch Reformed Church had developed into a conflict with major religious and political implications. The Synod attempted to resolve the controversy between the Remonstrants and Counter-Remonstrants and produced the Canons of Dort, which would have a lasting influence on Reformed Protestantism far beyond the Netherlands.
The Synod also commissioned a new official Dutch translation of the Bible. The resulting Statenvertaling, first published in 1637, became one of the most influential books in Dutch history and had a profound effect on the development of the Dutch language. So within only a few generations, Dordrecht had played a prominent role in trade, the Dutch Revolt, the political development of the Republic and the religious history of Protestant Europe. And much of that history can still be discovered simply by walking through the streets of old Dordt.
View of Dordrecht by Adam Willaerts (21 July 1577 – 4 April 1664) a Dutch Golden Age painter.
Where Three Rivers Meet
If you come to Dordrecht, one of the best places to begin is the Groothoofd, at the historic entrance to the city. Stand there for a moment and simply look. Before you lies the magnificent meeting point of three great waterways: the Oude Maas, Noord and Beneden-Merwede. For centuries these rivers carried ships, merchants and goods to and from Dordrecht and were fundamental to the prosperity of the city. Even today, an extraordinary variety of vessels passes the Groothoofd — from small pleasure boats and traditional craft to enormous inland cargo vessels. Yet despite all that movement, there is something remarkably peaceful about standing there and watching the rivers flow past. For me, it is one of the finest views in the Netherlands. Modern ships may have replaced the medieval sailing vessels, but the essential landscape remains the same: Dordrecht surrounded by water, looking out across the rivers that created its history.
Salmon and the Rivers of DordrechtThe rivers brought Dordrecht not only trade and prosperity, but also fish — and particularly salmon. According to an old and much-loved local story, salmon was once so abundant that servants in wealthy households became tired of being served it repeatedly and supposedly demanded that their employers should not make them eat salmon every day. Whether the story is entirely true or has grown more colourful with every retelling is perhaps less important than what it tells us about Dordrecht’s historic relationship with its rivers. What was once regarded as everyday food eventually became a delicacy. Today, fortunately, you can enjoy salmon in one of Dordrecht’s restaurants without having to negotiate how many times a week it will appear on the menu.
Discovering Dordrecht on Foot
Probably the best way to experience Dordrecht is on foot. A city walk through the historic centre reveals a remarkable collection of monuments, old harbours, merchant houses, warehouses, churches, narrow streets and hidden courtyards. Unlike a city that displays all its treasures at once, Dordrecht often rewards the visitor who is prepared to wander a little and look around the next corner. The historic harbour area is particularly atmospheric. Water penetrates deep into the old city, and bridges and quays repeatedly offer unexpected views of houses that sometimes seem to rise directly from the water. And of course there is the Grote Kerk, whose unfinished medieval tower has dominated Dordrecht’s skyline for centuries.
The Dordrechts Museum
Art lovers should certainly visit the Dordrechts Museum, situated in the historic city centre among the monuments, old harbours and shopping streets. The museum has an important collection of Dutch painting spanning several centuries, with particular strength in artists associated with Dordrecht and the Dutch Golden Age. Among the city’s great artistic names are Aelbert Cuyp, Nicolaes Maes and Ary Scheffer, but the collection reaches far beyond these Dordrecht masters. One work is particularly appropriate for a city whose history has always been inseparable from water: Adam Willaerts’ monumental View of Dordrecht from 1629. Measuring several metres across, it presents the seventeenth-century city as it would have appeared from the water — its skyline rising above a river filled with ships and activity.
Looking at that painting today, almost four centuries later, there is still something immediately recognisable.
But Dordrecht is still Dordrecht — and to those of us born here, simply Dordt.
Visit Dordrecht
If you have the opportunity to visit, take your time. Walk through the old harbours, stand at the Groothoofd and watch the rivers, visit the Grote Kerk and the Dordrechts Museum, explore Het Hof and then simply wander through the streets of the historic centre. Dordrecht does not need to shout about its history.
It is all around you.
Some more suggestions if you visit Dordrecht are:
- Mr. Simon van Gijn Museum
An 18th century manor with period rooms, a period kitchen, collections of glassware, pottery, paintings, ship models, and antique toys. Chosen in 2004 as the best small museum of the Netherlands - Het Hof
Featuring the States Hall where, in 1572, William of Orange organized the resistance against the Spanish rulers. It is the birthplace of the Netherlands as an independent nation. - The Great Church
This Late Gothic cruciform church, with its typical tower and beautiful choir stalls, was rebuilt after the great fire of 1457. - The Groothoofd
This gate offers a unique view of the busy river junction with lively terraces on the quays.
If you would like to have more information about Dordrecht, then pay a visit to Dordrecht on the web and visit the local VVV tourist office.
Events and festivals
Dordrecht hosts around 20 cultural and historical events and festivals each year. The city won the title of “Best events city of the year” in 2003 and was nominated for the same title in 2004 and 2005. Dordt in Stoom (literally: Dordt in steam) is the biggest steam event in Europe during which historical steam trains, steam boats etc. can be seen in action. It is organized every year and attracts a quarter of a million visitors. Attention is also paid to Dordrecht’s art and architecture during Kunstrondje Dordt (literally: Little art circle Dordt) and Dordt Monumenteel (Dordt Monumental), which attracts around 100.000 visitors ever year. Dordrecht hosts the second largest book market and the largest Christmas market in the Netherlands.
Wantijfestival is an out-doors music festival that has been held annually in the second week of June since 1995. It takes place in the Wantij park and attracts around 35.000 people each year. Wantij park also hosts the Wantijconcerten (Wantij concerts) that are held every Monday night in July and August. Other popular music festivals held in Dordrecht are the World Jazz dagen (World Jazz days) held annually in August or September, the Dancetour or Boulevard of Dance, which takes place on Queensday, Big Rivers Festival, a film, music, poetry and theatre festival held in June, and the Cello festival, held every four years in the weekend of the Ascension.
Dordrecht’s annual fun fair is among the highest-ranked in the Netherlands and the International Puppet festival, held in June, includes performances from artists from all over the world, including Italy, Germany, Taiwan, Israel and the US.
Folklore
During Carnaval, Dordrecht is called Ooi- en Ramsgat (Ewe’s and Ram’s hole), and its inhabitants are Schapenkoppen (Sheepheads). This name originates from an old folk story. Import of meat or cattle was taxed in the 17th century. To avoid having to pay, two men dressed up a sheep they had bought outside the city walls, attempting to disguise it as a man. The sheep was discovered because it bleated as the three men (two men and one sheep) passed through the city wall gate. There is a special monument of a man and his son trying to hold a sheep disguised as a man between them, that refers to this legend. The logo of Dordrecht’s professional football club FC Dordrecht includes the head of a ram and its supporters are known to sing Wij zijn de Dordtse schapenkoppen (we are the Dorsts sheep heads) during matches. There is also a cookie called Schapenkop (sheep head) which is a specialty of Dordrecht.
There are many more legends about Dordrecht. One of them is about Saint Sura, a young woman who planned on building an entire church with only three coins in her purse. She was murdered because of her supposed wealth.
Another legend is about the house called de Onbeschaamde (the Unembarrassed). It is about the three brothers Van Beveren who each wanted to build a house and decided to hold a bet on who dared to place the most risky statue on their façade. One of the brothers, Abraham van Beveren, placed a naked little boy on his façade. However, the house that supposedly won has an empty façade today because, according to the story, the statue was so risky that it was removed.
A well known saying about Dordrecht is “Hoe dichter bij Dordt, hoe rotter het wordt” (the closer to Dordrecht, the more rotten it gets). The previous mayor Noorland added to that; “maar ben je er eenmaal in, dan heb je het prima naar je zin” (but once you’re in it, you’re perfectly content). The saying can probably be explained as follows; traffic used to go by water and whoever came close to Dordrecht was obliged, according to staple right, to display their merchandise for a couple of days before being allowed to sail on. This caused loss of time and caused products to become rotten. Another explanation is derived from Bommel is rommel, bij Tiel is niet viel en hoe dichter bij Dordt hoe rotter het wordt which is supposed to be said by farmers describing the bad quality of the land close to the rivers Maas and Waal, only suitable for harvesting reed.
Nature
The Sliedrechtse Biesbosch, east of Dordrecht, and the Dordtse Biesbosch, south of Dordrecht, together form the Hollandse Biesbosch which is a part of the national park the Biesbosch, one of the largest national parks in the Netherlands and one of the last freshwater tide areas in Europe. The Dordtse Biesbosch has several recreational areas that are used for walking, rowing and swimming.
Dordts
Dordts is a dialect of Dutch traditionally spoken by the working class of Dordrecht. It is categorized under the Hollandic accents but also has characteristics of Zeelandic and Brabantian.
Typical features of Dordts are: Using the diminutive suffix -ie or -tie in cases where standard Dutch uses -je. (e.g. Standard Dutch: appeltje (“little apple”) Dordts: appeltie)
Words borrowed from Brabantian such as akkerdere (“lit. to knock or to fit, fig. “to get along”). The Dutch diphthongs ei and ui tend to be pronounced more like èè and öö. Recently, the ei-sound has started to be pronounced more like ai.
In the 20th century, Dordts has slowly started to disappear as more and more people have started speaking standard Dutch. The strongest Dorts dialect is nowadays found in the working class neighborhoods bordering the city centre.
Cees Kloosterman
Source 3D photo:
3D reconstruction of Dordrecht 1425 made by Zock Design, published here (06-02-2020) with permission of Per Bos, Zock Design, Dordrecht
Other photo’s:
- Wikimedia Commons. The work of art depicted in these images and the reproduction thereof are in the public domain worldwide. The reproduction is part of a collection of reproductions compiled by The Yorck Project. The compilation copyright is held by Zenodot Verlagsgesellschaft mbH and licensed under the GNU Free Documentation License.
- Cees Kloosterman
